An Autumnal Cru Beaujolais


With fall having arrived in nyc, something revolutionary happenened to the palate–organically and almost over night. For me, as soon as the cool air and aromas of autumn commence, my taste buds yearn for savory, earth driven reds. White wines are still a common fixture at the table, but the reds certainly dominate the show. So last week, after a day of gathering root veggies and pork from my local farmers market, I prepared a quintessential fall meal: grilled rosemary bone in pork chops and herb roasted fingerling potatoes. Simple. Honest. And replete with earthy goodness.

As the potatoes were doing their business and sending out mouth watering aromas of thyme and winter savory, I sifted through my cellar(2×2 closet) and pulled out a cool bottle of the 2007 Domaine des Terres Dorees Cru Fleurie(Louis/Dressner Selections$21.00) Winemaker Jean Paul Brun works mysterious magic in the Beaujolais and for me ,his wines always have a resounding pureness and confident impact on the senses. Polite yet forceful. Jean Paul Brun’s wine making techniques place him squarely in the hyper natural camp; and his Bojo’s probably taste as they used to, pre-WWII . After spending a few minutes in the fridge, I pulled the cork and enjoyed all the beauty Jean Paul can coax from the gentle Gamay variety. The aromatics were as delicate as a feather; expressing the purity and femininity of Cru Fleurie with perfection…… savory, strong and polite on the palate. The subtlety of all the components kept me intrigued and mesmerized for several hours of brilliant drinking. The last sip was stronger than the first. The wine and food together were flawless and united as one beautiful piece of art. Fluid and natural. This meal was surely a great giver of happiness and content.
Jaime Brockway Warning: Drinking Less Than One Bottle Of Loire Wine Per Week Will Make You Sick And Fragile.