With fall having arrived in nyc, something revolutionary happenened to the palate–organically and almost over night. For me, as soon as the cool air and aromas of autumn commence, my taste buds yearn for savory, earth driven reds. White wines are still a common fixture at the table, but the reds certainly dominate the show. So last week, after a day of gathering root veggies and pork from my local farmers market, I prepared a quintessential fall meal: grilled rosemary bone in pork chops and herb roasted fingerling potatoes. Simple. Honest. And replete with earthy goodness.
As the potatoes were doing their business and sending out mouth watering aromas of thyme and winter savory, I sifted through my cellar(2×2 closet) and pulled out a cool bottle of the 2007 Domaine des Terres Dorees Cru Fleurie(Louis/Dressner Selections$21.00) Winemaker Jean Paul Brun works mysterious magic in the Beaujolais and for me ,his wines always have a resounding pureness and confident impact on the senses. Polite yet forceful. Jean Paul Brun’s wine making techniques place him squarely in the hyper natural camp; and his Bojo’s probably taste as they used to, pre-WWII . After spending a few minutes in the fridge, I pulled the cork and enjoyed all the beauty Jean Paul can coax from the gentle Gamay variety. The aromatics were as delicate as a feather; expressing the purity and femininity of Cru Fleurie with perfection…… savory, strong and polite on the palate. The subtlety of all the components kept me intrigued and mesmerized for several hours of brilliant drinking. The last sip was stronger than the first. The wine and food together were flawless and united as one beautiful piece of art. Fluid and natural. This meal was surely a great giver of happiness and content.
Jaime Brockway Warning: Drinking Less Than One Bottle Of Loire Wine Per Week Will Make You Sick And Fragile.
Last Saturday a good mate of mine from university popped in town for a brief stay; and shortly after his arrival, a bunch of east coast oysters were slurped chez moi alongside a chilled glass of the 2006 Domaine de l’Ecu Muscadet Sevre et Main Cuvee Classique(Kysela Pere et Fils $12-$15) . Winemaker Guy Bossard adopted organic farming in the early 1970’s and certified biodynamic in the 1980’s, way before it was marketable or cool –he is undeniably un homme de la terre. Guy produces several single soil wines like Expression de Gneiss or Orthogneiss which are dense and age worthy. From what I gather, the Classique comes from younger vines, various soil types, and numerous parcels. Nevertheless, this wine is truly an admirable expression of soil and place for under $15!!! In my opinion, the only other wine growing region in the world which can compete with the Loire Valley in the price : soil expression ratio is Germany. So how was the wine, you ask?? It smelled like rocks and tasted of springtime. Also, it’s a bit fussy upon opening, so I would recommend a strong decant before serving.
The 2007 Domaine de La Pepiere “La Pepie” Vdp Cabernet Franc(Louis/Dressner $15) is just so damn enjoyable and fun to drink. I am convinced winemaker Marc Ollivier can do no wrong. Don’t bother picking apart the pieces of this charmer or over analyzing, because that’s not what this wine is about. An act like that would be over exaggeration and taking away from the essence of its beauty. So here is how I recommend enjoying the “La Pepie“: Pop it in an ice bucket, call over a few close friends, bring out the saucisson, and enjoy a few cool bottles of a thirst quenching Cabernet Franc in all its simplistic beauty. Sometimes geeking out on wine and its hidden nuances is tiring. Just shut up and enjoy!!