Here are the brief notes I promised from my previous post. The list below are my personal favorites from the whole lot. It is terribly unfair and difficult to judge a natural wine out of context(not with food or good company), so don’t blame me if you disagree. If it were possible, I would take each bottle home, call a few close friends, cook a delicious meal and see what happens to the wine over the course of an evening……. That is not realistic or possible, so I embraced the moment and went with the flow. A many thanks to Jenny and Francois for a wonderful tasting of natural French wines. I am humbled by your passion.
“In Europe then we thought of wine as something as healthy and normal as food and also a great giver of happiness and well being and delight. Drinking wine is not a snobbism nor a sign of sophistication nor a cult; it was as natural as eating and to me as
Meet Pascal Frissant. He owns Chateau Coupe Roses in Minervois, France. Last year, I worked at his artisan estate picking grapes and helping in the cave. Based on this picture, do you think I had fun!?!? Simple answer. So yesterday, I had the good fortune of enjoying the fruits of my labor by tasting the newly released 2007 Chateau Coupe Roses VDP “Champ du Roy” Cotes Du Brian (Marsanne,Viogner,Grenache Blanc,and other white varieties). The nose and palate are exuberantly wild, spicy,floral, and intense. Not a shy gal here. Take a sip, swoosh it over your tongue, suck back some air, and feel the warm scents of the Mediterranean hit you like a Mac Truck!!! Serve very cool and next to a warm baguette slathered with tapenade.Pas Mal.
In these very uncertain times, I am obviously becoming more conscious of how I consume; and the days of going out to eat and drink with friends three times per week is frozen. Indefinitely. So this morning, I withdrew $20.00 from the ATM, and wandered over to the Union Square Greenmarket. With the pup by my side, we scouted out all the vendors and then attacked with purpose. My goal was to come away with enough food to last me three meals. Difficult, but possible. So this meant the grass fed beef, pork or chicken had to be scratched. Also, I could forget a luxury fruit like grapes or heirloom tomatoes. But in place,I landed a beautiful half dozen eggs, a head of orange cauliflower, a quart of mini- green squash,garlic, and a baguette for only $13.00 !! With a little money left over, I bought a wedge of blue cheese thinking this could put some density and protein goodness on the squash or cauliflower. A little creativity and portion control will be required to succeed. Wish me luck.
With fall having arrived in nyc, something revolutionary happenened to the palate–organically and almost over night. For me, as soon as the cool air and aromas of autumn commence, my taste buds yearn for savory, earth driven reds. White wines are still a common fixture at the table, but the reds certainly dominate the show. So last week, after a day of gathering root veggies and pork from my local farmers market, I prepared a quintessential fall meal: grilled rosemary bone in pork chops and herb roasted fingerling potatoes. Simple. Honest. And replete with earthy goodness.
As the potatoes were doing their business and sending out mouth watering aromas of thyme and winter savory, I sifted through my cellar(2×2 closet) and pulled out a cool bottle of the 2007 Domaine des Terres Dorees Cru Fleurie(Louis/Dressner Selections$21.00) Winemaker Jean Paul Brun works mysterious magic in the Beaujolais and for me ,his wines always have a resounding pureness and confident impact on the senses. Polite yet forceful. Jean Paul Brun’s wine making techniques place him squarely in the hyper natural camp; and his Bojo’s probably taste as they used to, pre-WWII . After spending a few minutes in the fridge, I pulled the cork and enjoyed all the beauty Jean Paul can coax from the gentle Gamay variety. The aromatics were as delicate as a feather; expressing the purity and femininity of Cru Fleurie with perfection…… savory, strong and polite on the palate. The subtlety of all the components kept me intrigued and mesmerized for several hours of brilliant drinking. The last sip was stronger than the first. The wine and food together were flawless and united as one beautiful piece of art. Fluid and natural. This meal was surely a great giver of happiness and content.
Jaime Brockway Warning: Drinking Less Than One Bottle Of Loire Wine Per Week Will Make You Sick And Fragile.
Last Saturday a good mate of mine from university popped in town for a brief stay; and shortly after his arrival, a bunch of east coast oysters were slurped chez moi alongside a chilled glass of the 2006 Domaine de l’Ecu Muscadet Sevre et Main Cuvee Classique(Kysela Pere et Fils $12-$15) . Winemaker Guy Bossard adopted organic farming in the early 1970’s and certified biodynamic in the 1980’s, way before it was marketable or cool –he is undeniably un homme de la terre. Guy produces several single soil wines like Expression de Gneiss or Orthogneiss which are dense and age worthy. From what I gather, the Classique comes from younger vines, various soil types, and numerous parcels. Nevertheless, this wine is truly an admirable expression of soil and place for under $15!!! In my opinion, the only other wine growing region in the world which can compete with the Loire Valley in the price : soil expression ratio is Germany. So how was the wine, you ask?? It smelled like rocks and tasted of springtime. Also, it’s a bit fussy upon opening, so I would recommend a strong decant before serving.