For reasons which I can’t explain, Ratatouille, a classic Provencal dish, has never been prepared dans ma cuisine. Thankfully, I wised up last week and sifted through my favorite cookbook, The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters; and found a delightful recipe for the dish. It was a cool, crisp fall morning in nyc and I shoved off towards the Union Square Greenmarket with the pup by my side. Side bar: dogs remind me to notice the small things and thoughtfully observe these gifts with gratitude. To supplement the Ratatouille I bought a half dozen eggs for scrambling and a baguette from my favorite vendor. With all the ingredients in my sac, my attention turned quickly towards wine–and what to pair with my simple meal.
Remember, I am relatively young, and live in a shoebox of an apartment(which I adore by the way), so sifting through a large cave a vin is never an option. With some deliberation, I returned to a bottle of the 2006 Clos du Tue Boeuf Cheverny Rouge (100% Auvernat Noir Louis/Dressner $18.00) which I had the pleasure of imbibing at the recent Louis/Dressner National Portfolio tasting. However, trade events offer zero opportunity to give any wine its proper due–especially the hyper-natural wines of the Puzelat brother’s, which are great with food and air . Cheverny is a small enclave in the north eastern corner of Touraine which received A.O.C. status in 1993 and produces red, white, and pink. The delicate reds are made with either Gamay, Auvernat Noir, Cabernet’s, Cot or Pineau d’Aunis. The Puzelat brother’s are doing wonderful work with their chunk of earth ; and offer numerous cuvees including some which include ancient varieties like Romarantin, Pineau d’Aunis and Arbois–all of which their father had a soft spot for. Not surprisingly, the Puzelat’s have a deep seeded reverence for honest, terroir -first type wine making. They practice eco–frirendly farming, avoid using external yeasts, and only add small amounts of sulphur before bottling. Add all this up( and more!) and what you have is a living wine which offers abundant opportunities to connect with nature and capture its beauty in liquid form. For those of you out there tired of industrial wines which are devoid of life, Clos du Tue Boeuf offers a great counterpoint to all the oak smothered, souless , sugar sweet wines which are all too ubiquitous in the market.